Kariann HaskellWe were offered to follow along and document a Cuban pastry chef returning to his home country for the first time in 20 years. Eager for opportunity, we jumped at the offer and suddenly had tickets ready for ourselves to join Chef Al on his excursion to his home land of Cuba.
After our flight to Florida, we arrived the next morning in Aeropuerto de La Habana Ciudad Libertad. We arrive at customs with three cameras, 5 lenses, and 2 GoPros. This struck them as fishy, so we were slowly pressed by the agents on our intentions. But our Spanish was horrible, and their English was strained.
Before our trip, I wanted to bring supplies for a local agency that focuses on rescue, rehabilitation of homeless cats and dogs in Havana, All People for Animals In Cuba. I found them on Facebook and arranged a delivery for a box of supplies later in the week. This box caused another inquiry as they opened it to check that all food was sans-beef and pork.
While customs was curiously examining bags of cat food and dairy supplement, three officers held us and demanded to know all addresses we will be staying at in Cuba, as well as documenting all our gear for whatever reason.
Two hours later, we were released and caught a taxi to our AirBNB downtown Veradero.
With midday heat surrounding our heads, we ran to the nearest cafe to order a drink to cool us down. We left to recharge back at our room before heading out for the evening to meet up with the rest of our group.
Our midday meal was provided by Nazdarovie, a Russian restaurant with an amazing view of the Malecon.
For dinner, we met with the group at El Del Frente downtown Havana. Drinks were superb, as well as a lively bar, and an unique view of downtown during sunset.
After 1 out of 2 nights separated from our group, we were picked up the next morning to adventure with Chef to explore his old schools, homes, neighborhoods, and beaches.
Santy Pescador was our lunch spot, with fantastic seafood fresh from the ocean and a chill atmosphere. We ate here more than once.
After a long day of filming, we settled down at Torreon de la Chorrera, a state-run historical landmark changed to a bar. Service was non-existent and though they were good with serving drinks, their food left something to be desired considering the cost. So we got plenty of drinks but not a lot of food, fed some kitties, and left.
Toasty, we head back to our AirBNB, ready to rest and get up in the morning to head out to Vinales with our group for the next few days of travel.
Awakened by the doorbell of our driver the following morning, we scramble out of bed to gather our gear to head out to Vinales with our group. In a haze, I hear Ronny utter the words, “We’ve been robbed.”
Unfazed by that announcement, I find our passports and cash where we left it, but to my dismay and head becoming clearer, the scene was true.
We were missing a laptop, bookbag, snorkeling gear, two cameras, two lenses, and a rented GoPro Hero 7. My heart could not have been more in my throat. We were now a one camera team of two. The night before I had opened the balcony doors and left them open overnight. We believe either the front door didn’t lock, or didn’t close completely, or someone came through the balcony. Unfortunately, its a mystery to what the real truth is, but someone out there hauled that night.
After consulting with our group, the only safe choice we had was to take off with them that morning, and not plan on coming back to the AirBNB on our own, fearing we were unwanted if we stayed there.
We aren’t sure if we were targeted by some locals, by the government, or by a random opportunist. But the insecurity and violation was enough for us to surrender and run.
Our van of madness roared down the A4 towards Pinar Del Rio, passing through to our lunch destination right in Vinales at Restaurante El Cuajaní. Our first real rest since the morning, we were delighted in the quality and taste of the food, as well as service to our party. We were treated so well here.
I left the group as a midday thunderstorm rolled through, bringing buckets of rain. I sat on the flower covered patio, taking in the rush of the storm and breathing, coming to terms with the reality of the situation, and to go with the flow until I could get home, then be able to process all that had happened.
We spent the night in Vinales at our own AirBNB hosted by Deny & Mercedes. They could not have been more accommodating and kind. We were still a bit shaken and quiet when we arrived, but once the storm cleared, we headed to the accessible roof to watch the sunset, and cuddle the sweet black kitten that demanded our whole attention.
After a day like that, I can still vividly remember that night and following morning. Neither Ronny nor I could sleep well, assessing every weird sound we heard at night as a potential for concern and fear. Though, upon investigation, it was chickens that roam around and sometimes feel like flying into the door.
Hungry and eager to start a new day, we all voyage to 3J Tapas Bar, having a beautiful lunch and picking up some trinkets from the nearby market.
Indian Cave was a sight to behold and walk through, as well as boat through.
We then visited a tobacco farm where we toured, looking through drying shacks and planting fields. They also made rum and we bought a bottle of La Occidental Guayabita del Pinar Dulce Rum Liqueur. STRONG MY FRIENDS.
My favorite part was watching them roll the cigars and use honey as the only adhesive.
Making our way back to Havana, our party wanted to pick up fresh sea urchins, concha, and octopus. After the robbery debacle, we stayed with the rest of our group in a loft, sharing the space with 10 other people. A true Cuban experience! Dinner was prepared with care and expertise of a few chefs in the kitchen.
Awakening the next morning, we set out to Playa Tarara to spend some time on the beach and in the cerulean water. Ronny and I took turns sharing a snorkel set to explore the underwater scene. Pools of striking small silver fish swirled around us, and a few beer cans as well.
Still, the sun shone on and corals danced in the reefs, some of the warmest waters I’ve snorkeled in.
That evening we explored Faro Castillo del Morro. This was my favorite vantage point of Havana. Chef showed us a few spots where he used to fish from the bay.
Resturante Antojos served us a fantastic dinner in the street. Delicious mojitos, men, and music.
Later that evening, we were treated to a night out Casa de la Música de Miramar. Cuban music serenaded us and the energy of the crowd was fantastic to feel as we enjoyed the live music with a bottle of rum.
Our final day was spent at the market, finding treasures to take home, and packing our bags to return home.
